Corrugated Metal Shed – Keep wood siding unpainted for a more woodsy look for your shed, and position the shed where it will be
For example, when I asked about using a drip edge, he responded, “Well, I guess you could use one. Most people just slap the sheet metal on there and let it overhang. The overhang is all you need to keep the rain off.”
Well, that may or may not be true, but I didn’t want a huge overhang because I just don’t like that look. I didn’t want to get into a discussion about the aesthetics of “long, unwieldy, trashy, half-hearted overhangs. Mr. SGuy didn’t go so far as to shrug openly when I did so, but I could see that he was apathetic about my choice.
And he did answer other questions, such as whether I needed supports under the sheet metal (“Not really. Most people just screw the sheets to the studs and skip the supports underneath.”), and which ridge cap to use.
By the time I had checked out, I was feeling vaguely nervous about both the project and about my own general can-do-ness; nevertheless, I loaded the material onto my trusty trailer and headed home. Here is the process, explained below.
First, I put down 30 pound roofing felt, using staples, and covered the edges with drip edging, using roofing nails (drip edging prevents rain from coming into contact with the wood of the roof), shown here in this photo with the ridge cap and the first corrugated sheet already in place.
I then measured the ridge cap to length and cut it. Because the ridge cap has “wrinkles” into which you slip the corrugated sheets, I wanted enough overhang to match the two components, and so when I cut it, I allowed for a one inch overhang on either side. Later, I would make a tiny snip in the center and fold the excess down and cover it and the sheets with a wider drip edge (strictly for looks).
As you can see in the photo, the wrinkles in the cap (I’m sure they have a name, but I like “wrinkles”), are actually a few inches down the roof from the ridge itself, which means that the edges of the sheets are not the same length as the length of the roof.
So in order to measure the sheets to length, I placed the ridge cap on the ground, slipped one of the sheets into the wrinkles as far as it would go, then measured how long it needed to be, allowing for a 1/2 inch overhang.
I also used a rubber hammer to apply some “carpenterial persuasion” to the wrinkles to make them adhere more neatly to the corrugated metal below. The ridge cap is made from heavy gauge aluminum, and so this is very easy to do.
The only other counsel I would offer about roofing is to make sure that any edges that have to overlap (as in drip edges, or shingles, or whatever) are “shingled” so that water runs down off one onto the other below it. In other words, the lower piece of roofing material is always underneath the higher piece.
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